Day 19: May 13, 2016

Destination: Carrion de Los Caldes

Distance: 20 km

Time: 5:30 hours, 9:15 am to 2:45 pm

Terrain: Flat, some mud along the canal and then a gravel trail along the road.

Weather: Mostly overcast, no wind or rain, started to clear up around 1pm

Total distance to date: 365 km + 12km taxi

I had a GREAT sleep in our cute “character” room. Forgot to set the alarm so Erik had to wake me up at 7:45. We packed up, had a coffee in the bar, and took pictures with the couple who run the place. They were super helpful and so friendly. The husband even called to book our next hotel for us.

We left the Albergue at 9:00am but stopped in town to buy some croissants and some peanuts and bananas for the road. We only hit two towns today and we aren’t sure if they have food.

We walked to the first town and I used the baño while Erik chatted with an older guy outside who convinced himthat it wasn’t too early to have a beer. 🙂

We had a choice to walk on a trail beside the road or a slightly longer trail along the canal so we chose the longer route. It ended up being pretty muddy after awhile so when we had the chance, we crossed over and finished on the road.

Overall I am feeling pretty good today – a few niggling aches and pains but nothing that can’t be solved with ice, Voltaren, and ibuprofen. Erik’s knee was a bit dodgy today too but manageable.

There were km markers along the way today so we each counted our steps for 1 km. Erik walks 630 steps (counting right leg only) and I walked 720 steps in a km. He has longer legs… I wonder how many steps I will take to Santiago? 800 km X 720 steps = ??

We arrived in Carrión de Los Condes and checked out the town, bought some snacks, and then crossed the bridge out of town to find our hotel. The Monasterio Real de San Zoilo wasn’t too much further and it is truly amazing. Built in 948 AD and originally dedicated to San Juan Bautista, it has long been known for providing wine and bread to passing pilgrims. Unfortunately we had to pay for ours. 😉 It was eventually declared a national monument and converted into a hotel. A double room runs 70 euros and up. We paid 75 euros for our lovely corner room which, although considered very expensive if you are on the Camino, is only about $115 CAD. This room would be $160-$200+ in Canada.

I had a hot bath and washed my filthy pants and socks in the sink (almost sacrilegious in this pristine room), then we went down to the Terraza for a glass of wine and to use our devices to suss out our next few hotels.

The Camino is VERY busy right now and unless you want to stay in the most basic cheap Albergue, you need to book ahead. We have the next two nights booked and have sent email requests for the 2 nights after that. We are hoping to be in Leon by Tuesday.

The menu del dia here is 25 euros per person so we will have some pizza instead.  We might have coughed up the money for what I’m sure would be an excellent meal, but it only comes with one glass of wine. For that price, we expect a bottle thank you very much. 😉

Didn’t see too many people we knew today – chatted briefly with Chris from Ontario, walked for a bit with Stephanie from Yellowknife, and had a quick Hola from Alain who passed by in a hurry to find food.

Life is good.



4 thoughts on “Day 19: May 13, 2016

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