Distance: 19 km
Time: 4:30 hours, 10:00 am to 2:30 pm
Terrain: mostly concrete path next to an old highway, some minor hills
Weather: warm and muggy to start, then a brief shower, then blue skies and warm temps
Total distance to date: 574 km (+12k taxi, 14k bus, 15k bus = 615 km)
We didn’t set the alarm so didn’t wake up until 8:00. I took cold meds last night and had a pretty good sleep. I felt a little stuffed up this morning but overall ok.
We went down for the buffet breakfast that came with the hotel price. It was an excellent selection including yogurt, hard boiled eggs, ham, and cheese – overall a good deal for a really nice rooms and full breakfast. 52€.
Last night we couldn’t eat at the restaurant the hotel manager had recommended so we walked back to a place we had seen coming into town because it had said they were open all day.
Side note: You have to get used to the eating times in Spain. Most restaurants are open for lunch from 1-3pm and dinner no earlier than 7pm. We find this challenging because we are usually rolling into town around 3-4pm and we are hungry but everything is closed. We have gotten around it by carrying or buying snack food to eat during the day and then having dinner at 7, or at 2:30 if we get into town early enough.
Anyway, the place we went to last night was really neat (Monocloa de San Lázaro). It was all wood inside with big timbers and lots of antiques and our waiter was super friendly and quite a character.
I had a huge salad with tuna and Erik had a half order of the local favourite, Botilla Cocida, which is spiced up left over pig parts, with cooked cabbage and chick peas. The waiter recommend a half order because full order is really big.
The meal sounds a bit gross but it was really, really good. I had several pieces of the meat. It was almost like a sausage but with lots of bones. We shared a half bottle of good wine for a change. It was nice to taste good wine instead of the low quality stuff they sometimes serve with the pilgrim’s meal.
Anyway, today we enjoyed our walk. We chose the road along the highway because it was shorter and much less hilly than the ‘scenic’ route and I’m not feeling 100% with my cold so I didn’t want extra distance or climbing.
We really felt like we were in BC today. After passing a lot of farms and vineyards, we got into the mountains again and it really reminded me of the Hope, BC area with the river running alongside us and the green hills going up steeply on both sides.
Today we ran into Philippe and Chantal who were stopping at the village before ours. We will see them tomorrow night in Laguna de Castillo as we are all staying at the same place.
We arrived at our pension at about 2:30 and had a Sangria while we waited for our room to be ready. I bought a Camino bracelet and necklace for 5€.
Our room is quite nice with a sink and enough room for our gear. There are two shared bathrooms right across the hall, each with tub/shower, and only three bedrooms share the 2 bathrooms. Quite a good deal for 38€.
The food here looks good and is reasonable so we will stay for dinner later. We showered and gave a big bag of dirty clothes to be washed and dried. It’s nice to do that every once in awhile. Sink washing every night is only so good.
Now it’s about 4pm and we are relaxing in our room. After I finish my blog, I may have a nap before dinner. Tomorrow we have a really easy day – only 16km – although the last 4-5 km is all uphill on the way to O’Cebreiro. That will our last big climb of the Camino.
I’ve got decent wifi today so I’ll post a few more pics than usual.